The color black has a plethora of significance, contradicting one another. To some cultures, black represents evil, darkness, death, sorrow, and misfortune, while others believe it stands to symbolize strength and seriousness.
Decoding each stated symbolism is definitely out of the question, but in the world of glitz and ever-changing trends, the color Black has been a constant. There is a reason why models, more often than not, are required to show up to castings in all black. It signifies mystery, sophistication, power, and elegance, which naturally translates into their work. Additionally, most globally recognized Luxury brands tend to have their logos in black for the same reasons.
The runway is no new to all-black outfits. Some are a hit, others a miss; almost like a love-hate relationship. Presenting to you: current all-black looks seen across Fashion weeks that have the potential to be winners, aka the ‘heir’ to the on-off ‘affair’ of Black and runway.
A homage to the 1961 Alain Renais’ film Last Year in Marienbad/L’Année Dernière à Marienbad, Creative director Virginie Viard’s spring/summer 23 collection was a laid-back yet noticeable 21st-century spin on the costumes featured in the movie that was, supposedly designed by Coco Chanel.
Keeping the Luxury brand’s paradigmatic fragments of tweeds, bows, sequins, rhinestones, sparkles, and the infamous cardigan alive while infusing it with the new-age allure of deconstructed prints, ostrich features, and pastel palette alongside the brand’s signature solid color palette to carve a new pathway for Chanel’s future.
2. Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello’s restrained color palette was a definitive nod to the up-and-coming target audience, aka “Gen-Z.” What appears quite plain in its palette execution, picks up with some opaque, some featuring midriff cutouts, some structured, and some dainty to produce ‘leveled-up’ drape-style dresses, reimaging Greek Goddesses.
3. Richard Quinn
The sudden and sad passing of Queen Elizabeth II witnessed an outpouring of condolences and respect in honor of Her Highness globally and more so, from those in creative fields, especially British artists and designers canceling or postponing their shows at the London Fashion Week as a show of respect. Designer and namesake brand Richard Quinn is one such brand that felt the jolt more, considering they owe their existence to Her Majesty, who presented Quinn with the first annual Queen Elizabeth II Award in design when they debuted in 2018.
Quinn, his core team of six and 20 extra helpers, worked day and night tirelessly 10 days prior to the show to change the concept of the show’s first half, paying homage to the Queen and the years she served the country.
The new first-half accented somber wall drapings with screens playing clips of old video footage of the Queen’s early days as a part of its highlighted installation. The first 22 outfit collections were made exorbitantly, featuring mainly formal dresses adorned with brooches popular in 1950s-from the time when the Queen took to the throne, capes, swing coats, and floor-length lace veils, all in the darkest of black.
In its forever quest of taking societal notions of American streetwear and spinning those with experimental fashion elements, ready-to-wear brand LRS’ aim and inspiration for S/S 23 season were flesh-baring pieces, eyeing to elevate the brand’s identity: capturing the essence of rock and roll, punk and Emo intertwined with motifs from the Renaissance era. The result- is an edgy yet chic-looking spin on classic everyday pieces for a new-age contemporary world.
Japanese brand Sacai is most known for fusing streetwear and modernity to create hybrid designs for the current generation of customers. The latest collection was made keeping in mind the corporate baddie of 2022- the modern-day working woman who wants functionality and wardrobe pieces that have the ability to transition seamlessly into the after ‘9to5’ life. Fluidity, aka movement being the core aspect of the collection saw versions of pleats come to play, structured A-line dresses, skirts and trousers working in asymmetric patterns, layers, ‘larger than life’ sleeved blouses, reimaged trench coats, corsets and fringe tops in a variety of textures and silhouettes.
6. A.W.A.K.E MODE
True to its unspoken D.N.A., A.W.A.K.E. MODE is defined by its quirky, off-beat, and deconstructed style of garments to create a versatile closet that is also a discreet nod towards historical and cross-cultural nuances from art and film. With the world going through unprecedented times and a political atmosphere, the current collection is unique, artsy pieces for everyday wear, adding mystery to the fragility and reality of life and the experiences life has to offer.
Designer Natalia Alaverdian’s spin over classics like cut-out tops, upcycled denim, embellishments, deconstructed trenches and oversized jackets gives birth to Geometric femininity.
7. David Koma
David Koma finally ventured into a bold palette of blue and lilacs this year alongside his known palette of Black shades, a theme this year inspired by two modes of travel and transportation: land and water. Key elements of inspiration are pavements, that of London, and the less-discovered nautical world of sea creatures. With more emphasis on the latter as creativity, this year’s collection gave birth to a different direction for Koma.
A blend of feminine and masculine styles: most outfits highlighted embroideries in the form of embellished oyster shells, starfish, and miniature fishhooks explored with classic Motorsport, edgy style featured as biker bomber jackets, hardware, and printed dresses.